Pipes and water tanks in an insulated loft
Once the loft floor is insulated, very little heat from the house reaches the roof space. Pipes and tanks up there are exposed to cold air and need protecting against freezing.
Why it matters more after insulating
Before insulation, heat leaking up from the rooms below kept the loft a few degrees warmer. Afterwards, the loft can be close to the outside temperature on a winter night. A frozen pipe can split, and when it thaws, water pours through the ceiling.
How pipes are protected
- Pipes lying on or between the joists can often be left under the insulation, on the warm side, where heat from below keeps them protected.
- Pipes above the insulation, or running up to a tank, need lagging with foam pipe insulation along their whole length, including bends and joints.
Cold water tanks
Don’t insulate under a tank. Leave the area beneath it uninsulated so some warmth reaches it from the house, and instead insulate the sides and top with a tank jacket or boards. Make sure the lid fits, which also keeps debris and insects out.
Unused tanks
Many homes changed to a combination boiler or mains-pressure system years ago, leaving an old tank in the loft. If it is disconnected, it may be possible to remove it, freeing up space. Ask us. If it might contain asbestos (some older tanks were made of asbestos cement), get advice before anyone moves it.
Common questions
Will you lag my pipes?
Should the hatch be left open in winter to warm the loft?
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